SONOMA GROWING SEASONSEach season brings a different vineyard activity. No matter when you plan to visit Sonoma or Napa, the wineries will be involved in growing or making wine. Here’s what to look for by season.
WINTERPruningLong ago it was discovered that better-quality fruit would grow on vines that are pruned back to distribute the bearing wood evenly over the vine. So, in the winter months, when the leaves have dropped and the vines are empty of sap, they are pruned back almost to the main stem.
Pruning vines is a necessary part of getting the best and most consistent fruit. Buds are formed before last year’s harvest, so last year’s farming practices dictate to some extent the quality of this year’s fruit. Pruning must take place within a short amount of time during the vines growth, so wineries have workers pruning 7 days a week.
Because pruning takes a practiced eye and an experienced hand, not all workers can prune. Experienced pruning workers are a valued group among the winery staff. Most plants are pruned to four to six canes. If the vines are allowed to grow too large, there’s no fruit. It can take as long as three to four years to get the plant back in balance.
Modern trellising methods vary by variety, geography, geology, harvesting methods and winemaking style! Two, three or four-wire, vertical, lateral, cordon and other configurations of trellis may exist in neighboring vineyards. There are stakes made of wood, metal and those combining the two materials. The different patterns primarily affect exposure to sun and wind and accessibility of fruit for hand or machine harvesting.
Like many things in the wine growing business, what happens now affects the fruit for years to come. It’s not a world for novices.
SPRINGAs winter ends, the pruning is nearly finished and the growers take cuttings to make bench-grafts and root them in sand. They also begin cleaning and repairing tractors and machines that they will be using all spring and summer. It is also time to order mixtures needed for spraying as protection against mildew and other diseases and pests. As spring continues, the vines emerge from dormancy. Sap begins to rise and brown sheaths, which have covered the buds, fall off. Now comes the first working of the soil, deeply, to aerate it.
If the vines' bases were covered for frost-protection, they are now exposed. The remnants of pruning are burned and any rotten vine-stakes replaced.
With daytime temperatures starting to warm, bud-break may begin the vegetation growth cycle as the shoots emerge. Frost danger is now at its height. Smudge pots, wind-machines, and frost-protection sprinklers must be repaired and readied. Although cold temperatures are rare in the valley this time of year, a sudden cold snap can destroy the grapes. Some wineries have even resorted to hiring helicopters to hover over vineyards to protect the valuable grapes from frostbite.
SUMMERSummer is the best time to visit the wine country. Long days allow lots of time to visit wineries, taste wine, go for hikes along the hundreds of hiking trails, swim, sip, eat and have fun. But although you may be relaxing, there’s lot of activity happening in the vineyards.
As the warm weather arrives, the soil is worked again to keep down the weeds. Suckers are removed from the vines about every ten days to encourage the sap to rise in the vines. Cover crops are sometimes planted between the rows to keep down weeds and act as hosts for predator insects. This is the time to see the mustard plants break into bloom and to celebrate Sonoma’s famous Mustard Festival.
When the daytime temperature reaches 60-65° F, the flowering will begin. An early flowering usually signals a very good quality vintage. The warmer and calmer the weather, the better; rain or hail can be disastrous now. After flowering, the shoots are thinned, the best shoots tied to the wires. Within a few weeks, minuscule berries that will grow in size, but stay green and hard replace the blossoms.
Where weeds have been allowed to grow between the rows, they are plowed or hoed. Long shoots trimmed every two to three weeks to concentrate vine metabolism on the fruit.
About mid-Summer the onset of ripening as the grapes begin to soften and swell significantly, while green varieties turn translucent and black grape varieties gain color. This signals the winemaker to prepare his equipment for the harvest. It is time also for diligent bird control in the vineyards.
The grapes now begin to sweeten as sugar is transported from the leaves into the fruit. The berries swell from increased water content that dilutes the concentration of the acids. Flavor compounds and tannins also begin to build. Monitoring the grapes will soon move from weekly to daily, anticipating harvest, as vineyard managers test sugar levels and winemakers taste for maturity and ripeness.
FALL--HARVEST SEASONEvery wine lover dreams of being a part of the big event--the crush. But how does the grower know when the right time is to harvest the grapes. If the grapes are picked too soon, the sugar content is too low. If the grapes are picked too late the sugar content is too high. Harvesting at the right time is a scientific determination based on exhaustive research.
Region and TemperatureIn 1935, researchers from the University of California at Davis began to investigate wine quality and compare climate history. They classified each growing area of California as a Region, based on temperature data. Vines are only active above 50° F. The degree-days are the total of the average daily temperatures above this point. Grapes need at least 1700-degree days to reach maturity. Region I is coolest at less than 2500 degree days; Region II has from 2501 to 3000; Region III, 3001 to 3500; Region IV, 3501 to 4000; and Region V, over 4001. This information helps growers select appropriate varieties to match their climate.
Varieties differ in the amount of heat required to mature their fruit. One hundred to 120 days after flowering, the grapes should be ripe. The harvest may start mid-August in warm areas, to late-September in the coolest ones.
Sugar Content
Sugar is measured in the U.S. using the Brix scale, which uses specific gravity to determine the percentage of sugar, by weight. Wine grapes are normally harvested between 19° and 25° Brix. From the 1960s through the 1980s, wineries often paid growers based on sugar content and the tonnage.
Fruit maturity is not, however a simple matter of sugar content. Acid content is every bit as important to quality and flavor and even more so to aroma constituents. Grapes will respire acid (especially malic acid) as they ripen and this loss is greater in warmer vineyard locations.
As grapes ripen, sugar, color and pH increase as total acidity decreases. For the highest quality wine, grapes need to develop aroma and taste characteristics that only result from physiological maturity and sugar-acid balance. Some signs of this maturity are the browning of the grape seeds (pips) and lignation, which is the browning and drying of the berry stems. But by far the most important indicator of maturity is the taste of the grapes.
The CrushMany visitors do not realize that wineries buy grapes from a variety of grape growers. This allows a wine maker to bottle his/her own wine without having to own hundreds of acres and it allows wineries to blend, change or develop new wines as consumer tastes change.
Quality-oriented wineries now negotiate grape purchase contracts based on acres, rather than sugar level and tonnage. This allows the winemaker, rather than the vineyard owner, to decide how much fruit the vines will carry and when the grapes are ready to begin harvesting.
Picking and the crush usually continue for two to three weeks. When it is over, the grape skins from the wine presses are mixed with fertilizer and spread over the vineyards. Soil may be plowed back up around the vine-bases where necessary for protection from freezing. In the northern hemisphere, vines are dormant from November to March. Cover crops may be planted between rows to help prevent erosion. As long as the weather remains dry, any land scheduled for planting the following spring may be deep-plowed. The vines are now immune to nearly all harm except for an unusually severe and deep frost. When the ground is dry and the severity of winter weather past, pruning will begin again for the next season.